We, Diane & Louise from the Highline team, embarked on a trip around Namibia in June 2024 to update our product knowledge, check the condition of the roads, and meet with suppliers new and old. Here is a summary of our findings!

 

DAY ONE: WINDHOEK TO DAMARA MOPANE

Stepping off the 2 hour Airlink flight from Johannesburg, landing in Windhoek, the pilot advised that it was 7 degrees celsius outside, but this did not hamper our excitement to be in Namibia. We were greeted by the driver from Zaris Safaris who took us to the depot in Windhoek, roughly a 45-minute drive. After learning the ropes of how everything works on the Land Cruiser we hired from Zari Safaris, we set off out of Windhoek, heading north on the B1 highway.

After a quick look around at some properties in Okahandja and Otjiwarongo, we continued north to Outjo for more site inspections. We had heard so much about the bakery in Outjo that we had to make a stop, and it did not fail to deliver…delicious ‘pigs ears’!

We continued along the tarred C39 and decided to take a short detour to have a look at Vingerklip – the ‘Rock Finger’ standing on a hilltop 35m high that is thought to be approx. 35 million years old.

We arrived at Damara Mopane Lodge (part of the Gondwana Collection) where we took a walk up to the deck on the hillside for sundowners and majestic views. En route up the hill we spotted a pair of Damara Dik-dik – small buck (antelope) that are extremely cute and Bambi-like.

After a 3-course traditional Namibian meal, we turned in for the night. It had been a 17-hour day and the adventure had only just begun!

 

DAY TWO: DAMARA MOPANE TO PALMWAG

After battling with the patchy internet to check on our emails, we left Damara Mopane Lodge and made our way to Khorixas, a small village, to check out some of the accommodation options located here.

There is a Himba village on the eastern side of Khorixas, just before the village. It is possible to arrange a visit to the village and participate in everyday Himba life.

Departing Khorixas, we headed west and found a wonderful coffee shop called the Petrified Forest Coffee Shop run by Eddy and Letty. Here you will find clean toilets and excellent coffee.

We continued west to the Petrified Forest itself, which is an accumulation of enormous fossilised tree trunks that are about 280 million years old. Susanna, the local guide, took us on a guided tour, which was a circle route of around 1 km and lasted 45 minutes. There were also beautiful specimens of the Welwitschia Mirabilis, Namibia’s national flower.

Next up, we made our way to Twyfelfontein Country Lodge, an unexpectedly beautiful lodge built between huge granite rocks, where we had lunch. Twyfelfontein is famous because of its around 2500 rock paintings and engravings of the San (hunter-gatherer communities) of which 2500 were counted. Diana, the local tour guide, took us on the tour which lasted around 1 hour. Remember to come prepared with a sun hat, walking shoes, sunblock and water for all outdoor activities.

We continued to Palmwag Lodge, an oasis in the middle of a very arid area. As we were going on a rhino tracking excursion at 06:00 the next morning we gathered at the fire pit for a briefing which lasted around 20-30 minutes.

 

DAY THREE: PALMWAG TO OPUWO

After a quick, early breakfast, we boarded the open game-vehicle for our rhino tracking. It was very cold this early in the morning! After quite a bit of driving, the rhino tracker located a rhino through his binoculars. We made our way closer in the vehicle and then on foot, forming a single line behind the guide. Not being able to speak, there were a few nervous giggles as we made our way towards the elusive, shy black rhino. Stopping approx. 200 metres from the rhino, there was a clicking of cameras. After around 20 minutes, we returned to the open vehicle. We continued winding through the hills, saw springbok and giraffes and eventually, another black rhino.

Continuing on the drive, we eventually stopped under the lone shady tree for a spread of tea, coffee, cold drinks and a variety of snacks. The ‘bush toilets’ were in operation. It was then back on the road all the way to Palmwag Lodge, arriving at around 13h30.

As a long road lay ahead, we set off on our way to Opuwo. The 230 km trip took us roughly 4 hours. The journey is on a dirt/gravel road where the monotony of the road is broken up by beautiful scenery, various wildlife and changing landscapes.

Opuwo Country Lodge, our overnight accommodation, is set on a hill overlooking a series of mountains, which made for a beautiful sunset.

DAY FOUR: OPUWO TO EPUPA

We did a bit of work this morning before we hit the road to Epupa (180 km – 3 hours). It was a dirt road with wildlife and Himbas on the sides of the road.

We arrived in Epupa at around 12h30. Wow, what a sight to behold coming over the hill and seeing what looked like an oasis with greenery and palm trees! This is the home of the mighty Kunene River which flows down from Angola – a huge, wide river flowing rapidly towards the numerous waterfalls.

We saw some different properties, then it was off to our overnight accommodation – Epupa Camp, located right on the river. It has lovely public areas including 2 swimming pools. They offer river rafting and have a suspension bridge, which you can cross onto an island and view the river from a different perspective. Accommodation consists of en-suite tents with netting and tenting, where tenting is partly open to allow for the air to flow through. Sleeping to the melodious sounds of the river is a wonderful experience!

We did a late afternoon visit to the waterfall and viewpoint activity. First you are taken close to the waterfall, the guide giving some history and facts about the falls. Then it’s back in the vehicle and up the hill to the viewpoint. Wow, what a sight! You get to see the whole of the falls on the Namibian side as well as the Angolan side. The view is breathtaking with the multitude of little falls all along the rocks. A wonderful place to have a sundowner and snacks provided by the lodge.

Dinner at Epupa Camp is served outside with the tables right next to the flowing river.

 

DAY FIVE: EPUPA TO DOLOMITE RESORT, ETOSHA

We started out just as the sun was rising and made our way back to Opuwo, refuelled, and headed onwards to Uukwaluudhi Lodge, a stand-out property with warm, welcoming hospitality & stunning views of a waterhole and across the bushveld to the plains. We highly recommend this lodge!

But we didn’t have time to stay long; onwards we drove to the Galton Gate entrance to Etosha National Park. After paying the entry / conservation fees, we drove slowly through the park on a dirt road for 45 km before we saw the beautiful Dolomite Resort located at the top of the hill.

The rooms are dotted along the hillside and at the end of the rooms,l you have a view of the two waterholes. A short transfer from the parking at the bottom of the hill takes you to your room with beautiful views over the plains and bushveld where you can see for miles. Sitting on the verandah we saw a few zebras walking by. There is no air-conditioning in the rooms but there is a large fan, otherwise the rooms have everything you need. You can literally lie in bed and look out over the bushveld. The public areas are housed in separate rooms also overlooking the bushveld and there is a refreshing swimming pool.

Dinner was delicious and then we went back to our rooms and to sleep.

 

DAY SIX: DOLOMITE RESORT TO HALALI RESORT, ETOSHA

We embarked on an early morning open-vehicle game drive from Dolomite Resort. Leaving at 06:00 AM, we departed in the dark, and our first stop was at the waterhole close to the lodge. We sat in semi-darkness listening to the hyenas doing their early morning calls to each other. Suddenly, along came two lionesses for a drink of water. They looked like they had full tummies and the guide, Nelson, was convinced they had left a kill to come and get a drink of water. When they departed we followed them for some time until they disappeared into the bush. Game driving in Etosha is not permitted off-road.

Turning around after some time, we turned back towards the waterhole where we saw a brown hyena walking along the road. Unfortunately we scared him off, but Nelson did mention that they do not see many brown hyenas. On reaching the waterhole we were greeted by three almost fully-grown lion cubs. What a sighting! One of the cubs played around with a herd of zebras – mock charging them. We think he was in training!

It was then onto another waterhole some distance away which was full of game such as giraffe, zebra, oryx, wildebeest and a small jackal.

We returned to the lodge for a delicious breakfast before we were on the road heading east to Halali Resort. It was 175 km from Dolomite Resort to Okaukuejo Resort which took roughly 5 hours. Driving the whole way through the park was slow, but a wonderful experience spotting wildlife the whole way. One waterhole even had 3 elephants drinking and throwing mud on themselves.

A quick stop at Okaukuejo Resort for lunch and then on to Halali Resort. On arrival at Halali, we made our way to the waterhole at the camp where we saw four rhinos; one just a baby. When the sun went down, we departed for dinner. We went to sleep happy – 5 lions to start the day and 4 rhinos to end it!

 

DAY SEVEN: HALALI RESORT TO ETOSHA SAFARI LODGE

We departed a little later today and made our way south to the Anderson Gate – the only tar road in the park.

We checked out a number of properties located just outside Anderson Gate, our favourites being Eldorado Lodge, Etosha Village and Etosha Trading Post.

Our last stop of the day was our overnight accommodation – Etosha Safari Lodge. We were warmly greeted by a large lodge with friendly staff. The rooms are dotted along the hillside overlooking the bushveld, offering beautiful views. The rooms wanted for nothing. The public area is also located on the hill overlooking a waterhole. Another beautiful sunset and delicious dinner was had here!

 

DAY EIGHT: ETOSHA SAFARI LODGE TO WATERBERG PLATEAU PARK

Just after breakfast, we were greeted by a large family of striped meerkats in the bushveld surrounding the lodge. We couldn’t stop watching their antics! Chasing each other, foraging for food and sunning themselves. It was unbelievably amusing.

We thoroughly inspected a few more properties, including Toshari Lodge & Okutala Lodge.

We then continued on our way and came across a restaurant, large curio shop and workshop complex called Etosha Corner, located 10 km before Outjo. A great spot to stop for shopping or eating with an affordable menu.

Eventually we came to the Waterberg Plateau Park. The camp is situated against the plateaued hill with beautiful golden cliffs. After a short picturesque walk up the hill to view the surrounding plains, we had dinner in a restaurant which was formerly the police station.